Cross of Sorrow

I have been counting the miles to see what I saw today. I walked 13 miles and up almost 2000 ft and then I saw it: I had heard about the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), I had prepared for it before I left and I had been looking for it all along the 500+ […]


Penance… with all the medieval churches and imagery along the Camino de Santiago, coupled with the fact that the pilgrim journey has a pain soundtrack, it is hard not to think about penance. I know… I get it. Penance is not a popular topic. Some of you are already cringing. And with all the imagery […]


It takes me up to 30 minutes to prepare my feet each morning. Often I am sitting in the dark, surrounded by a dozen beds, whose inhabitants are in various states of consciousness. Each movement is slow and deliberate, releasing the smallest of sounds, I… inspect, clean, massage, prepare, trim, medicate, bandage, wrap, limit friction, […]


Will I even finish the Camino? For the first 9 or 10 days, I felt unstoppable. I was walking beyond the recommended stages most days and at a good clip. I had been warned to not give into my hubris and so I tried to stop regularly, air out my feet, change my socks. Then […]


I’ve passed so, so many graveyards along the Camino… …as well as all the tombs in churches and the memorials to pilgrims who died along the Camino. That’s a lot of death to witness… and to process… My nephew, who died of cancer when he was only four, is my symbolic companion along the Way; […]

The Art of Walking

I am in the town of Najera in the province of La Rioja. I have just completed the first quarter of my walk along the Camino de Santiago (200 km). So many of you have expressed enthusiasm, interest and curiosity about the Camino, some asking me to write more…. Well, I will write from time […]

Roads: Sacred and Vulgar

I spend hours everyday walking along the roads of the Camino de Santiago. The roads are made of various surfaces. Most of the time, as these photos reveal, I am walking alone. There is no one else in site. A good percentage of the time I am walking with other pilgrims, but… From time to […]